Why do tourists come to the Solovetsky Islands? It’s unclear. Solovki doesn’t have sandy beaches, warm seas, or sunny summers like the Maldives. There’s no Turkish “all-inclusive” package on Solovki, like in Turkey or Anapa. And yet, tourists come.
Perhaps they’re pilgrims visiting the Solovetsky Monastery? It doesn’t seem likely. The monastery refectory is always crowded, but the church services are sparse. So most tourists aren’t pilgrims.
So why do tourists come to Solovki? It’s hard to understand, but we went too and don’t regret it at all.
Many famous, prominent, and interesting people have visited the Solovetsky Islands over the years. Unfortunately, most of them came to Solovki as prisoners. How fortunate we are to be able to come here as tourists.
About the Solovetsky Islands
This is not a guide to Solovki. These are the personal impressions of two tourists who visited Solovki.
The Solovetsky Islands are located in northern Russia, in the White Sea. Administratively, the Solovetsky Islands belong to the Arkhangelsk Oblast.
Kem is the nearest town on the mainland. The distance from Kem to Solovki is approximately 50 kilometers.
The Solovetsky Islands are an archipelago (a group of islands) consisting of many islands. The Solovetsky Archipelago contains many islands, but tourists travel to Bolshoy Solovetsky Island. The island stretches approximately 24 kilometers from north to south and approximately 15 kilometers from west to east.
Bukhta Blagopoluchiya Bay is located in the southwestern part of the island. Approximately 170-200 meters from the seashore (from the bay) on the island is a lake – Svyatoye Ozero. Between them lies the island’s main attraction – the Solovetsky Monastery.
The village of Solovetsky is probably the only populated area on the island. It occupies the area surrounding the monastery.
The village has several hotels, a store, an airport, a tour desk, bicycle rentals, and numerous souvenir shops.
There are several piers on the island.
The Monastery Pier is the pier closest to the village center (the monastery). Cruise ships moor at the Tamarin Pier, approximately one kilometer from the Monastery Pier.
The airport is located approximately 650 meters northeast of the monastery.
The so-called Cape of Labyrinths is located approximately one kilometer south of the monastery.
Solovetsky Monastery
The Solovetsky Monastery is the island’s main landmark and the center of the village. It resembles a fortress, a very beautiful and imposing structure. Many towers are built from enormous boulders.
The tour of the monastery offers a rich and engaging account of the monastery and its history. I was left with the impression that the monastery was more of a special-purpose prison (for special prisoners) than a place for monks to live.
Tourists also make a point of visiting the monastery refectory. The monastery’s dishes (as in other monasteries) aren’t culinary masterpieces, but you have to eat somewhere. (It’s also quite expensive, like everything else on the island.)
More about the Monastery.
Information for tourists
Needless to say, the monastery is the island’s main attraction.
Tourists on the islands are also encouraged to visit other attractions and sites. Some might be interested in nature, others in the history of the Gulag. Some might want to see beluga whales.
A few observations.
There are several piers on the island. The Monastery Pier is closest to the center. The Monastery Pier has two entrances, so don’t confuse them.
There are no paved sidewalks on the island: sand, gravel, and cobblestones. It’ll be difficult to drag a suitcase with wheels. But there are taxis! (Perhaps this will change by the time you arrive.)
Since most of the roads are unpaved, the wind sometimes kicks up a lot of dust in dry weather. In rain, it might be muddy.
We haven’t seen anyone here wearing good shoes, boots, heels, etc.
Hiking boots and sturdy sneakers would be the most suitable footwear. What about the roads on Solovki during the rains? We don’t know.
Wind! Yes, wind is common here. Moreover, the weather changes quickly. Ship trips can be canceled in strong winds.
Is sunscreen necessary on Solovki? Some kind of protective face cream is a must. Many tourists have red, chapped faces and noses.
Rain. The weather forecast predicted rain, but it didn’t happen. The forecast can’t keep up with the changing weather.
Prices. Prices for most goods on Solovki are higher than on the mainland. Prices in the monastery refectory are higher than in cafeterias in Adler and St. Petersburg.
Mosquitoes. They say the mosquitoes on Solovki are particularly “vicious.” We hardly saw any mosquitoes. The wind must have driven them away.
Hotels are few and expensive. A good room with amenities (we would rate it as a good 3*) cost us 12 thousand per night. (The season is short, you need to have time to earn money.)
How to get there
The tourist season on Solovki is very short, roughly from June to September. This is the navigation period when ships sail to the islands. At other times, the Solovetsky Islands can be reached by plane or helicopter from Arkhangelsk.
Most tourists travel to Solovki via the town of Kem, a small town in northern Karelia. Tourists arrive in Kem by train (or by car). Ships and boats to the Solovetsky Islands depart from the village of Rabocheostrovsk, which is located on the seashore near Kem.
You can get to Rabocheostrovsk (the pier) from the Kem train station by bus or taxi.
Ships and boats depart from the piers in Rabocheostrovsk to the islands.